deluxe

Foreword by Renato Cipullo
Text by Vivienne Becker

ASSOULINE SPRING 2021 LEGENDS COLLECTION
CIPULLO: MAKING JEWELRY MODERN

“For the longest time I have wanted to create a book dedicated to my brother Aldo, to shed light on the scope of his work, and in celebration of his life and the times in which he lived.” – Renato Cipull0

“I design for today, thinking of tomorrow.” – Aldo Cipullo

 

Born in Naples in 1935 to a family of jewelers, Aldo Cipullo became the most glamorous jewelry designer of the 1970s and early ’80s. Aldo left Italy for the exciting possibilities of life in New York City, enrolling at the School of Visual Arts. By 1960 he was working for the acclaimed society jeweler David Webb, who was renowned for producing designs that were bold and expressive, to then joining Tiffany & Co., where he began developing his own design vocabulary.

In 1969 he moved to Cartier alongside the company’s President Michael Thomas, where, at the top of his craft, he introduced some of the most modern and timeless creations, such as the Love bracelet, a seminal design that is fastened to the wearer’s wrist with a special screwdriver. He followed this up in 1971 with the Nail collection, inspired by a nail wrapped around the finger or wrist, a surprising creation that embodied the gritty glamour of New York of the time.

Aldo Cipullo struck out on his own in 1974, continuing to create jewelry for men and women that turned heads, including pieces in the shape of the dollar sign, which he deemed “the electric eye that reflects the mood of this country.” In 1978, the American Gem Society commissioned him to create a collection featuring stones mined in America, such as turquoise from Arizona, diamonds from Arkansas and sapphires from Montana; these pieces are now part of the Smithsonian Institution. Although he sadly passed away suddenly in 1984, Aldo Cipullo’s legacy of forward-thinking yet classic designs remain perennially popular.

This slipcase volume is filled with striking images of Aldo Cipullo’s modern jewelry designs, which are both iconic and universal, intimate yet also intensely personal, contemporary and timeless. Punctuated with Cipullo family photos and fond anecdotes from Aldo’s friends, Cipullo: Making Jewelry Modern unfolds the story of one of the most innovative and, until now, enigmatic talents of modern jewelry history.

Designer Renato Cipullo leads a fine jewelry house based in New York. In addition to his fine jewelry collections, Renato’s creations have been worn by royalty and celebrities, and among an extensive list of private clients globally who regularly commission him for the intricacy of his bespoke designs. He created the Midnight watch in the 1980s, for which he was dubbed the Father of High-Tech Accessories. Carrying on a tradition from generations of jewelers, Renato Cipullo continues to steward the legacy in keeping with the family’s traditions and uncompromising design principles.

Author Vivienne Becker is an award-winning journalist and jewelry historian. A contributing editor to Financial Times How to Spend It magazine, Becker writes for publications around the world and lectures and broadcasts on her subject. She organized the first major exhibition of the jewelry of René Lalique, and curated Jewels of Fantasy, a traveling exhibition of twentieth-century costume jewelry. Becker’s previous books for Assouline include De Beers Jewellery (2011), The Impossible Collection of Jewelry (2012), Sevan Bıçakçı (2014), The Pearl Necklace (2016), Bulgari: The Joy of Gems—Magnificent High Jewelry Creations (2017), De Grisogono: Daring Creativity (2017), and Sevan Bıçakçı: The Timekeeper (2018).

 

 

LONDON, 16 February, 2021: The award-winning Singaporean designer, Simone Ng, debuted Simone Jewels 15 years ago, and in celebration of this momentous occasion she is delighted to announce the release of her latest collection ‘From Russia With Love’. 

Inspired by Russian heritage, the collection, originally released back in 2011, has been revisited with a contemporary approach encapsulating new stunning elements. Designed with incredibly detailed craftmanship and artistic flair, a key feature of the collection is guilloché technique used in the renowned Fabergé eggs for the elaborate enamelling work and fine figurines.

Ballerina Ring in 18K Rose Gold with Pink Tourmaline and Diamonds ($14,350). Ballerina Earrings in 18K Rose Gold with Pink Tourmaline and Diamonds ($14,350)

 

The collection includes unique, one-of-a-kind pieces such as the Fabergé Delight. Handcrafted over five months, the egg, made of 18K white and rose gold is covered in diamonds, and opens up to a reveal a miniature white enamel Russian ballerina.  The clasp is adorned with a vivid red ruby to finish off this luxurious pendant fit for royalty.

Faberge Delight in 18K White and Rose Gold with Ruby, Diamonds and Enamel ($22,550)

 

Commenting on ‘From Russia With Love’, Founder and Executive Creative Director of Simone Jewels, Simone Ng said, “I have always been absolutely fascinated by the grandeur of Russian and my inspiration for this collection was drawn from the craftmanship and intricacy of the royals’ elaborate pieces.”

She adds “Russian royalties have owned some of the world’s most exquisite jewellery, with Catherine the Great, the Empress of Russia, believing that great jewels were as important as a great army!”

Ballerina Earrings in 18K Rose Gold with Pink Tourmaline and Diamonds ($11,000)

 

Launched in 2014 Simone’s designs are inspired by history, architecture, culture and each creation made is an heirloom of timeless essence, transformable and transformative. 

The new ‘From Russia With Love’ collection is now available.

You know those stories about Rolls-Royce? They are all true

Upon announcing that Rolls-Royce equips its motor cars with a refrigerator that has two cooling modes: ‘Summer’ and ‘Winter’, thus ensuring occupants’ beverages are delivered at the optimum temperature for the relevant season, the marque has witnessed significant interest in the myths and legends that endear so many to the brand. In this spirit, the time is now to reveal more of the truths that have defined the modern Rolls-Royce success story.

Images: Rolls-Royce

1) At prototype stage the 6.75-litre Rolls-Royce V12 engine had to faultlessly revolve 750million times before being approved for production.

2) The mechanism that retracts the Spirit of Ecstasy to prevent theft and damage is comprised of 24 unseen linkages and bearings.

3) 14 highly qualified Rolls-Royce engineers run a fleet of 16 intensive test vehicles 365 days a year on top of their normal workloads. They do this without complaint.

4) The sensors in a Rolls-Royce are so sensitive they are able to detect if a driver or passenger shifts their body weight from one side to the other and adapt accordingly.

5) The 1300 Watt, 18 speaker Bespoke Audio system in a Rolls-Royce is so exhaustively tuned, interior designers must seek the permission of the audio engineer who created it before making any design changes.

6) Much like the wood veneer inside a Rolls-Royce motor car, the weave of the carbon-fibre that makes up the central spine of Dawn’s ‘Aero Cowling’ tonneau cover is expertly hand book-matched to achieve a perfect chevron pattern.

7) The marque’s lauded Starlight Headliner began as a Bespoke request. A Rolls-Royce client was suffering from Photophobia, an extreme sensitivity to light, and was only able to enjoy reading his daily newspaper under the starlight on his rural ranch. He requested that the marque develop a similar ambience in his Rolls-Royce.

8) The marque’s Bespoke designers increasingly facilitate commissions via mobile messaging services. Indeed, one of the first clients to take delivery of her Cullinan commissioned the motor car entirely via WhatsApp, witnessing the finished product for the first time upon its arrival at her home in the United States of America.

9) Before building the ‘Clean Room’ where the ‘Gallery’ fascia within Rolls-Royce Phantom is assembled, Associates from The Home of Rolls-Royce visited pharmaceutical and microprocessor Clean Rooms in order to fully understand these complex manufacturing laboratories.

10) A Rolls-Royce Wraith ascended the famous hill-climb at the 2015 Goodwood Festival of Speed in just 52.71 seconds. A feat that could not be bettered by two Maserartis, a Porsche and a Bentley.

11) Sommeliers advise that the optimum serving temperatures of non-vintage Champagne is six degrees centigrade and vintage Champagnes is 11 degrees centigrade. Rolls-Royce equips its motor cars with a refrigerator that operates two cooling modes, chilling to six degrees and 11 degrees respectively. 

12) Phantom’s world-leading sound insulating properties were employed by London-based musician Skepta, who was able to record a track in its entirety from the rear seat.

13) 4,500 automated electronic test and commissioning sequences are executed during assembly to ensure the car is crafted to its correct specification. A further 3,500 take-place once the car is finished. A car must pass every test before it is permitted to leave the factory.

14) Over 100 microprocessors decipher 130 million lines of code, ensuring every Rolls-Royce’s suite of cutting edge technological features can be called upon instantly and seamlessly by the driver or passengers.

15) Over 25m of cabling is used to transfer audio data in a Rolls-Royce. Fiber-optic cabling is used to ensure immunity against interference.

16) In 2018, Rolls-Royce added shooting stars to its celebrated Starlight Headliner with eight shooting stars that fire at random across the ceiling panel.

17) To achieve the marque’s mirror-like finish, 5 layers of paint are applied by the only robots you will find at the Home of Rolls-Royce. Any hard-to-reach spots are painted by highly skilled paint experts. In total the process of applying a flawless exterior finish takes seven days and uses over 100lb of paint.

18) Paint quality is checked by the most sophisticated measuring tool in the world: the human eye. If a car does not meet with the approval of the marque’s notoriously fastidious auditors, it will be scrapped.

19) It takes 17 days to hand-craft the leather elements of a Rolls-Royce interior.

20) The most detailed single piece of embroidery to feature in a Rolls-Royce motor car is a Peregrine Falcon, the fastest bird in the world. The photo-realistic design consists of nearly 250,000 stitches and took a team of designers, craftspeople and engineers over one month to develop.

21) The 48 painstakingly crafted wood parts that comprise a Phantom interior take 28 days to produce. A sense of seamless flow of grain is ensured by only using wood from one tree for each motor car.

22) Mark Court is the only man in the able to hand-apply a perfectly straight Phantom coachline. In total it takes 3 hours per side. He uses special brushes made from ox and squirrel hair to ensure the line is precisely level and a uniform 3mm in width. He honed his steady-hand painting pub-signs.    

23) Engineers will analyse cavities with an endoscope during monsoon water tests to ensure no moisture ingress. Should a car fail this test it will be scrapped.

24) A Rolls-Royce is so quiet, Sir Henry Royce ordered the fitting of signs at the factory proclaiming ‘Caution, Silent Cars’. Modern health and safety dictates that craftspeople maneuvering cars around the Manufacturing Plant must intermittently sound the horn as a warning.

25) A Rolls-Royce rides on a 16litre air cushion married to dampers and springs that dynamically adjust themselves every five milliseconds to deliver the marque’s sovereign magic carpet ride.

26) When driven in a spirited manner the Rolls-Royce suspension system can draw on two high-torque electrical motors to minimise body-roll.

27) Legend has it that during a particularly spirited birthday celebration, Keith Moon drove his Corniche into a hotel swimming pool. This story is untrue – he was far too fond of his Rolls-Royce to let it come to harm. 

28) When creating the Rolls-Royce Architecture, on which all contemporary Rolls-Royces are built, engineers incorporated a resonance chamber into the body’s sill section. This, essentially, transforms the body of the motor car into a subwoofer, delivering exceptional low frequency audio performance.

29) A tailor made heat station brings every Rolls-Royce body to an exact temperature of 25 degrees Celsius to ensure that the rubber seal between the sunroof and the body is perfectly mated, this eliminates any road and wind noises over many years of driving.

30) It takes 60 pairs of hands 400 hours to build a Rolls-Royce – this can more than double depending on the complexity of a Bespoke commission.

31) Rolls-Royce sells cars on five continents. Should a customer live in a country without a dealer, specially trained technicians will fly to their home country to service their car. This small band of experts have been affectionately dubbed ‘Flying Doctors’.

32) The brief given to the marque’s engineers tasked with developing the roof mechanism for the Rolls-Royce Dawn was to create a silent ballet. They emphatically succeeded. While being the largest production convertible roof in the world, it is also the quietest. 

33) During the testing period of the Rolls-Royce Dawn, lead Test and Analysis engineers were required to wear shorts so they were able to detect unpleasant airflow around their legs and feet. This testing was conducted in January at three degrees centigrade.

34) At 70 mph, a Rolls-Royce still has 90% of its power left in reserve.

35) A sensor within the Gallery Clean Room continually measures the particle concentration in microns – an alert is sent if particles are detected at a size larger than 0.001 of a micron. The width of a human hair is between 50-100 microns in diameter.

36) Every single component that makes a Phantom Gallery is painstakingly cleaned by hand inside a particle proof cleanroom before final assembly – this takes two people two hours to complete.

37) The Spirit of Ecstasy is so valued by the marque that there is a safe lock on the shop floor containing no more mascots than the necessary for one day of production. The code is known only by a small circle of craftspeople.

www.rolls-roycemotorcars.com

 

© Thomas Wirth
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